Hotel Review: Castle Hot Springs in Arizona

Allow me to set the scene: I’m in a car, driving down a bumpy, dusty dirt road in the middle of Arizona’s Sonoran Desert. It’s been about an hour since I left Phoenix, and there’s currently no sign of civilization — only saguaro cacti. Many saguaro cacti. 

I’m just starting to wonder how I could possibly be headed in the right direction, when my destination suddenly appears: Castle Hot Springs, a remote resort focused on upscale wellness and adventure. The main gate rolls open, and as we I drive down a palm tree-lined pathway, I feel like I’ve been transported to a desert oasis, a protected canyon surrounded on all sides by the scenic Bradshaw Mountains.

The history of Castle Hot Springs is a fascinating one. Established in 1896 on the site of natural hot springs said to have restorative qualities, the wellness resort has long attracted some of America’s most famous families, from the Rockefellers to the Vanderbilts and Astors. It has even played host to two presidents: Theodore Roosevelt and John F. Kennedy (the latter rested there after his wartime service, prior to his presidency).

In 1976, however, a fire caused the closure of the resort. While the property was continuously cared for, it wasn’t until its purchase in 2014 that a plan was made for the redevelopment and reopening of the retreat. In 2019, those plans came to fruition — and today, Castle Hot Springs is more enticing than ever before. It was even named Travel + Leisure’s No. 1 Resort in Arizona for the 2021 World’s Best Awards.

The property only hosts about 60 guests at one time, which, combined with its remote location, creates a sense of true tranquility and seclusion — in fact, I often felt like I was the only guest around, despite knowing that the resort was at full occupancy during my visit. Clients are also likely to appreciate that Castle Hot Springs is nearly all-inclusive: Daily meals (including five-course dinners) at the on-site restaurant, gratuities and a host of daily activities are all covered under the room rate, which starts at $1,400 plus tax (during the low season) for two people. 

Beautiful Bungalows

Although Castle Hot Springs spans 1,100 acres, the total room count at the property comes in at only 30 freestanding accommodations — and there are no plans to add more. Rooms are divided mostly between Spring Bungalows and Sky View Cabins, and there’s no wrong way to go, as all are thoughtfully designed for relaxation, comfort and luxury. There’s also a 1,200-foot cottage with three bedrooms, two bathrooms and a living room, for larger parties. 

The rooms’ design and furnishings are modern and chic, while still reflecting the desert environment and incorporating elements that bring the outside in, such as floor-to-ceiling windows. Standout features of my Sky View Cabin included a private outdoor bathtub fed by spring water, and a wood deck equipped with a telescope for spotting stars in the clear night sky. Spring Bungalows, on the other hand, offer an indoor/outdoor fireplace, a covered stone patio and a more expansive outdoor bath setup. 

Wellness Opportunities 

Also included for guests is unlimited, 24/7 access to the resort’s namesake natural hot springs. The three on-property pools are exclusive to guests, and offer three different temperatures for all-weather soaking experiences. What’s more, the springs are rarely crowded; on one early morning dip, my only companion was a wandering bunny. Soakers will also appreciate the amenities at the springs, from water and towels to loungers, changing rooms, lockers and even pool floaties. While the springs are about a 15-minute walk from the rooms, guests can call for a ride on a golf cart at any time. 

If clients are drawn to Castle Hot Springs for its rejuvenating waters, there’s a good chance they’ll want to take part in some of the resort’s other wellness activities, too. Scheduled options on any given day range from yoga and meditation to tai chi, mindfulness activities and sound bath ceremonies. While these options are complimentary and available to all guests, those who want to more a more personalized program can also arrange for private sessions with the resort’s wellness specialists for an extra charge. 

Travel advisors should note that the resort doesn’t have a traditional spa, though it does offer treatments — including massages; reiki; and body wraps, scrubs and rituals — in its outdoor spa cabanas. While some might miss typical amenities such as a steam room or sauna, I preferred this stripped-down setting. From the cabana, I felt connected to the natural surroundings, listening to the stream that runs around the grounds (feeding the hot springs) and feeling the gentle desert breeze.

Archery, Aerial Walkways and Other Adventures 

While it’s easy to get your Zen on at Castle Hot Springs, there’s also a whole slate of active opportunities, ranging from the gentle to the adventurous. In fact, the daily schedule is so abundant that on a single day, I found myself choosing from a stunning 17 different options.

Archery classes and guided hikes are among the included offerings, but adventure-seeking clients may want to pay for something more unique, such as the Western Shooting Experience or the new desert e-bike and ATV Razor tours that the resort recently introduced. There’s even a Via Ferrata course that lets guests scale the canyon’s walls on a guided adventure just steps from the hotel grounds. (Depending on the activity, prices range from $50 - $250 per person.)

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I wasn’t about to climb 500 feet up a cliffside on metal rungs and steel cables, but I did push myself out of my comfort zone on a hike to the Sonoran Aerial Walkway, which is part of the larger Via Ferrata course but can be tackled on its own. Strapped into a harness and clipped to the narrow metal bridge, I marveled at the desert views while my patient and encouraging guide, Jack, helped me feel shockingly comfortable 150 feet above the canyon floor.

What’s on the Menu? 

Bouncing between relaxation and thrills, I worked up quite an appetite. Fortunately, the food and beverage program at Castle Hot Springs might just be my favorite thing about the retreat. 

When the property reopened in 2019, it introduced a sustainable, regenerative farm program that allows the resort to grow much of its own produce for the restaurant and bar, as well as educate guests on food production. To that end, complimentary farm tours are offered each day, during which guests explore three acres of farm space, tasting produce plucked straight from the ground. 

Ian Beger, lead agronomist and head farmer, was my guide on this experience, and his passion was evident all along the way. Noting that some 200 varietals of fruits and veggies are growing on the property at any given time, he pointed out everything from easily recognizable garlic, fennel, peas, radishes, peppers and lettuces to more unexpected fare such as edible succulents, sugarcane, agave and yuzu (a type of citrus). I fell in love with the dedicated greenhouse where vines of rainbow-hued tomatoes are suspended from floor to ceiling — my personal paradise. (For even more fun on the farm, guests can take a farm-to-bar mixology course for $50 per person.)

All that incredibly fresh and delicious produce gets used at Harvest restaurant and Bar 1896, thanks to constant collaboration between the farmers, chefs and bartenders in seasonal menu creation. The freshness of the farm comes through in every bite and sip on the property, but particularly in the craft cocktails and the nightly five-course dinner service. One dinner during my visit included a sweet potato and green chili soup; a harvest salad with smoked juniper vinaigrette; coffee-rubbed beef tenderloin; and a strawberry caramel crunch bar for dessert. 

By the end of my stay, I honestly wasn’t sure how I was going to go back to eating grocery store produce — but I guess that’s just another reason to return to Castle Hot Springs.

The Details 
Castle Hot Springs