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Susanna SpaceContributing Writer

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Where to Eat, Sleep and Play in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Jan 22, 2024
Arts & Entertainment  Culinary  Hotels and Resorts  Travel Trends  
Where to Eat, Sleep and Play in Santa Fe, New Mexico
La Reina at El Rey Court specializes in mezcal and tequila beverages.
Credit: 2024 La Reina at El Rey Court

Santa Fe has long attracted visitors with its azure skies, dreamy high-desert climate and unique blend of Indigenous, Spanish and Anglo cultures. And while today’s Santa Fe retains all the charm of the past, newness abounds in 2024 in this historic city, from artwork and crafts by young makers committed to sustainability and modern desert-chic lodging and retail experiences to internationally influenced and Indigenous-forward cuisine.

Where to Eat

Santa Fe’s culinary scene exemplifies the modern flavors of this high-altitude city. A quick glance at the array of gourmet coffee shops hints at it: The city’s cafes rival spots on both coasts in rich local roasts and pure cool, from the funky vibe of Betterday to the dreamy architectural patio of Iconik Lupe. For drinks and small plates, natural wine bars La Mama and Copita offer selections from near and far, along with local brews perfect for relaxing after a day of hiking, skiing, gallery hopping or indulging at one of the area’s many spas.

RELATED: What to Do in Taos, New Mexico

While the city has long boasted fine-dining staples such as Geronimo and The Compound, the real excitement now is in Santa Fe’s smaller venues and pop-ups. Downtown, Alkeme fuses pan-Asian cuisines and entices with periodic celebratory prix fixe dinners and drinks such as the Ha Long Fizz, a mocktail made with lemongrass syrup. SkyFire at the newly reenvisioned and historic Bishop’s Lodge (now an Auberge Resorts Collection property) dazzles with dishes that range from roasted celery root to a 31 oz. bison tomahawk steak, as well as a kids menu that’s far more than an afterthought. Also not to be missed: the brand-new bar at Izanami — located at the Ten Thousand Waves Japanese health spa — offering gourmet Japanese cuisine and cozy booth seating with views of the pinon pine-dotted Sangre de Cristo foothills.

SkyFire restaurant at the recently renovated Bishop’s Lodge features a wide range of menu options.
SkyFire restaurant at the recently renovated Bishop’s Lodge features a wide range of menu options.
Credit: 2024 Bishops Lodge, Auberge Resorts Collection

For more casual fare, the newly minted Capital Coal Neighborhood Eatery in the Guadalupe district slings kimchi quesadillas and burritos stuffed with fried rice. Just a few blocks away, the vendors at Chomp food hall include Yapopup, a spot for Indigenous soul food, and Wild Leaven Bakery, which offers hearty breads and gourmet vegan soups. For a night (or day) in, rave-worthy chef Dhiru Paul of Aruna Cafe shares weekly menus for dinner pickup on Fridays, while blink-and-you’ll-miss-it tiny boutique lunch spot Ozu — just a short drive from downtown — serves up takeout dishes as exquisitely presented as they are delicious.

Where to Sleep

Lodging options abound in this destination city. A brilliant new choice is Bishops Lodge, with luxury rooms, finely appointed casitas and other standalone lodging options for couples trips, family and friend gatherings and longer stays. Located a short drive from downtown, this property offers guest experiences from on-site hiking and breath-work classes to art tours and ski packages complete with apres-ski chocolate tastings.

A three-bedroom casita at Bishops Lodge
A three-bedroom casita at Bishops Lodge
Credit: 2024 Bishops Lodge, Auberge Resorts Collection

Downtown, Santa Fe’s boutique hotels include the charming Las Palomas, tucked away on San Francisco Street just a few blocks from the Plaza, offering hot breakfast to start the day and coffee and cookies for a cozy mid-afternoon lift. For a vintage vibe, El Rey Court, located along the old Route 66, is close to diners and coffee shops and gives visitors a taste of Santa Fe’s earlier days without sacrificing elegance. Intimate on-site bar La Reina specializes in mezcal and tequila-centric beverages. (Don’t miss the swim-up bar and live music and festivals outside on the lawn in the warmer months.)

Offering a similar concept is The Mystic Santa Fe, which caters to budget-minded but design-savvy travelers seeking atmospheric lodging and events, which the Mystic hosts both outside and at the property’s restaurant, High Desert Bar & Cafe.

El Rey Court is an accommodation option on the old Route 66.
El Rey Court is an accommodation option on the old Route 66.
Credit: 2024 El Rey Court

Where to Play

Santa Fe’s Railyard Arts District, a short walk up Guadalupe Street from downtown, epitomizes the city’s refreshed ethos. Among the latest additions here is the New Mexico Museum of Art’s Vladem Contemporary, a 10,000-square-foot gallery space opened in late 2023 that holds notable works by artists including Virgil Ortiz and Agnes Martin. Contemporary galleries including Form & Concept and Evoke Contemporary line Guadalupe Street, leading finally to Site Santa Fe, an international destination for contemporary art and artists, as well as host of frequent openings and talks by visiting artists.

At Living Threads, shoppers can find various art pieces from local vendors, along with handmade jewelry, clothing and home goods.
At Living Threads, shoppers can find various art pieces from local vendors, along with handmade jewelry, clothing and home goods.
Credit: 2024 Meredith Brockington/Living Threads

The contemporary live-work complex Lena Street Lofts, another emerging area, lures visitors to shop at Living Threads, an art gallery and retail destination with seductive displays of one-of-a-kind local and handmade jewelry, clothing and home goods. Also not to be missed are the newer shops invigorating historic Canyon Road, including the stunning 4Kinship, home of sophisticated vintage upcycled fashions created by Navajo fashion designer Amy Denet Deal.

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Expertly curated Desert Moss Vintage, also located on Canyon, keeps with the theme of no-waste shopping, while Cielo Handcrafted — housed inside a charming old adobe home — invites leisurely browsing of pottery, handbags, jewelry and products by local and regional makers.

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